Here it is! Hemis Monastery Lhakhang Nyingma, Newly Completed Video Documentary
See the rare interior of Lhakhang Nyingma, oldest temple at Hemis Monastery, dating back to its 17th century founding in the high Western Himalayan mountains of Ladakh, India. Its wall murals and sculptures are considered among the finest examples of Buddhist art from this period.
Hemis Monastery Lhakhang Nyingma
VIDEO
2021 (filmed 2013)
8 min. 45 sec
This footage was originally shot during my 2013-14 Fulbright-Nehru research fellowship when I traveled throughout the Spiti, Lahaul, and Ladakh regions in search of 10th-12th century Indo-Tibetan mandalas.
Hemis Monastery is the largest monastic institution in Ladakh and the main seat of the Drukpa Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism. The spiritual head is His Holiness the 12th Gyalwang Drukpa. The current monastery was founded in the 17th century by the revered Taktsang Repa (1574-1651) when King Sengge Namgyal ushered in the golden age of Ladakh, and the Drukpa tradition flourished under his reign. Today, Hemis Monastery continues to flourish, along with other affiliated monasteries such as Chemrey, Hanle, Timosgong, Shey, and Mulbek, among many others.
Located in Hemis National Park, the largest national park in South Asia, Hemis is situated inside a gorge at 12,000 feet altitude. Built into a mountainside in Shang Valley, it is hidden until one gets close enough to see it. The stunning cold desert landscape is one of the most elevated and coldest regions on earth, with altitudes reaching as high as over 19,000 feet and temperatures as low as -30°C. When I visited in September, I was well aware that it was the last month advised for travel before the harsh climate begins. Roads are unpassable for half the year because of snow and remoteness. The understanding is, if you are stuck there when snow begins, you may in fact have to stay there until May when travel is possible again!
When one arrives at Hemis Monastery, one passes through a portal to enter a large rectangular outdoor courtyard formed on four sides by the main monastery with its two large dukhangs (assembly halls), the visitor’s gallery, a museum, and monk and administrative quarters. A distinctive feature is the Tibetan style of architecture with three tall prayer flags displayed in the center of the courtyard.
The oldest temple of the monastery, Lhakhang Nyingma, is tucked away behind the main structure of the monastery. It is hidden from view in the main courtyard and is usually not open to visitors.
When one enters the lhakhang, the most noticeable sculptures are the two large, approximately life-size ones of Taktsang Repa, and the incarnate spiritual leader, the Gyalwang Drukpa.
On the shrine wall seated in its central niche is a gilded copper sculpture of Tara.
I found it enchanting to discover this master figure peeking out from behind Tara. This is the revered Milarepa (1043-1123), a Tibetan yogi ascetic who is typically depicted with his hand cupped to his ear in a singer’s gesture. Milarepa was a poet, musician and mystic. His fame comes from the many songs that he composed and sang on the subjects of ordinary life experience and Buddhist teaching. His fame also comes from his dramatic transformation from a murderous, tormented individual to an enlightened saint.
The painted wall murals of Lhakhang Nyingma are considered among the finest Buddhist art of its period, ca. mid-18th century. Some of my favorites are the following, for their poise, finely executed painting, and gold-leafed gilded details:
Below is Taktsang Repa (1574-1651) who was Tibetan and lived in Ladakh from 1622 onward. He founded Hemis as a yogi training center initially. The Six Yogas of Naropa and the ascetic yogic lifestyle are hallmarks of the Drukpa lineage. It is said that Lhakhang Nyingma was the first temple at the monastery consecrated by him. He passed away at Hemis on January 29, 1651.
Tatksang Repa (1574-1651), wall painting at Lhakhang Nyingma, Hemis Monastery. Photo: Kishore ThukralThe following is Tilopa, one of India’s 84 Mahasiddhas (greatly accomplished masters), 10th century CE. He hailed from Zahor, India. He is usually depicted holding a fish because when his renowned student Naropa first met him, Tilopa was dressed as a beggar, sitting by a stream engaged in liberating the consciousness of live fish.
Lastly, another favorite painted figure which I found stunning was this Vajradhara, exquisitely gilded and painted, so expressive of a glowing, enlightened state of being.
Acknowledgements:
With gratitude to the Office of His Holiness the Gyalwang Drukpa and Hemis Monastery. Many thanks to Tsunma Nawang Jinpa. Made possible in part by the support of Fulbright-Nehru Research Program, Council for the International Exchange of Scholars, and United States-India Education Foundation.
See other video documentaries of Tabo Monastery, Lamayuru Monastery, Lhalung Monastery, and Mangyu Monastery here.
To learn more about Tibetan Buddhist art and its relationship to 10th-12th century Indo-Tibetan predecessors, visit my Fulbright blog.