Maitreya Buddha at Dawn in Mulbek

Rock cut Buddha in Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Rock cut Buddha in Mulbek, Ladakh, India. A bit difficult to see in the shade. Portions of it are visible above the monastery

September 22, 2013

This was a quick side trip to see the gigantic rock cut Maitreya Buddha in Mulbek, Ladakh. Some believe it was carved as early as 1st century C.E. Other scholars believe it was created as late as 8th century.

The mountainsides at Mulbek Monastery, which surrounds the base of the Buddha, were still in shadow when we first got there. My friend K and I planned travel so that we would arrive just before the sun rose.

Sure enough, before long, the rays of the sun peaked out over the mountains, and suddenly bathed the carved rock with raking, glowing light. The Buddha popped out in relief!

Rock cut Buddha in Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Rock cut Buddha in Mulbek, Ladakh, India
A large mani wheel silhouetted against the breaking dawn and late moon, Mulbek, Ladakh, India
A large mani  prayer wheel silhouetted against the breaking dawn and late moon, Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Dawn breaks over Mulbek rock cut statue of Maitreya Buddha, Ladakh, India
Dawn breaks over Mulbek rock cut statue of Maitreya Buddha, Ladakh, India

Originally the carved Buddha did not have a monastery at its base. This was built in the 1970s. While it is a lovely little building, it’s a shame that it obscures the full view of this beautiful rock cut sculpture.

Rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India

But once inside the monastery, one can look up to behold this majestic sight.

Rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Detail of rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India

Back outside, I found that the fullest view you could get was from across the highway, up on the terrace of a dhaba or eatery.

Rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Rock cut Buddha amid Tibetan prayer flags, Mulbek, Ladakh, India

Or from down the road a distance away on its other side.

Rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India
Rock cut Buddha, Mulbek, Ladakh, India

En route back towards Alchi Monastery where we were headed for the day, we passed by this high point of over 12,000 feet altitude on the Leh-Srinagar highway in Ladakh.

Namilaka high point, over 12,000 feet altitude, on the Leh-Srinagar highway, Ladakh
Namikala high point, over 12,000 feet altitude, on the Leh-Srinagar highway, Ladakh

The semi-arid incredible landscape of Ladakh never ceased to surprise and exhilarate me. As far as your eye can see, the horizon just produces one mountain after another. It inspires respect for nature, and for the people who have lived here in this challenging land for millenia.

Namilaka high point, over 12,000 feet altitude, on the Leh-Srinagar highway, Ladakh
Panorama of Namikala high point, over 12,000 feet altitude, on the Leh-Srinagar highway, Ladakh

A common sight on the roads in late September are Gaddis, members of a tribe living mainly in the states of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu/Kashmir, herding their goats and sheep back down to the lower altitudes. I learned that at the beginning of the summer season in roughly around June, herders bring their flock up to graze. They remain in the high mountains for the summer season and return to lower altitudes before the snow arrives. Snow comes typically around early October.

Herds of goat traveling back down to the lower altitudes are a common sight in late September in the Himalayas.
Herds of goat traveling back down to the lower altitudes are a common sight in late September in the Himalayas.
Herds of goat traveling back down to the lower altitudes are a common sight in late September in the Himalayas.
Herds of goat traveling on the roads back down to the lower altitudes are a common sight in late September in the Himalayas.

All photos © 2013, Eva Lee.

2 Responses

  1. I’ve caught up now and think I’ve read it all. Thanks, Eva your trip must have been really enchanting. We will share our Angkor experience with you someday in exchange for more on India and Tibet. Really great. Thanks again, see you soon, I hope. Bob

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