The Positive and Negative Spaces of Ajanta Caves

December 11-12, 2013

When I first heard about the paintings of Ajanta Caves, I had an updated version of Lascaux on my mind. You know, natural shelters in rock, which have rough and organic interior surfaces painted with images of, well, in this case, Buddhist motifs. Even though I had later seen some photos online, nothing, I tell you, nothing prepared me for experiencing the mind-boggling architectural sophistication that is Ajanta. Hewn out of the solid volcanic rock of the Deccan Plateau in South India, these 30 caves consist of verandas, courtyards, ambulatories, colonnaded walkways, apses, antechambers, shrine rooms, sanctums, stupas, and so forth. Many are two stories or more.

Ajanta Cave 19, India
Ajanta Cave 19 facade, with courtyard, porch, arched window, adjacent shrine rooms.
Near Aurangabad, India

The caves are unbelievable feats of engineering, excavated in one piece from top to bottom. All of the elements named above, including statuary and shrines, bar-reliefs, every detail from pillars to doorjambs and window frames, are carved from single, solid rock! No kidding, they are purely constructed by the removal of material. From an artist’s point of view, this is dealing with negative space as much as positive space. Think of what’s not there in order to see what is there. 

Ajanta Cave 26, India
Panoramic view of Ajanta Cave 26, India
Ajanta Cave 19, India
Apse and barrel vaulted ceiling, carved details on frieze, columns, capitals, and stupa. Ajanta Cave 19, India

Now add to this the fact that in many of the caves, every surface, nook and cranny, was carefully plastered and sanded to a smooth sheen, then exquisitely painted with refined colors to depict scenes of Buddha’s life, Jataka tales, bodhisattvas, entourages, and decorative patterns.

A testimony of skill and artistry, and considered to be the beginning of classical Indian art, no wonder Ajanta Caves is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Detail of scenes from Life of Buddha, wall paintings, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of scenes from Life of Buddha, wall paintings, Ajanta Cave 1
Birds-eye view of Ajanta Caves
Birds-eye view, model of Ajanta Caves, Waghora stream

All this is nestled in a peaceful wending river valley with flowering trees. It must have been quite a place of devotion for the monastic community who lived here intermittently between the 2nd century B.C.E. to 5th or 6th century C.E.

Today, access is by road midway along the cliff, but in its day, one can imagine the serene seclusion of the site, accessed only by stairways leading from the valley floor up to the caves.

IMG_3857
Entrance to Ajanta Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site located in a horse-shoe shaped river valley, circa 2nd century B.C.E to 5th century C.E. Buddhist caves, near Aurangabad, India
Ajanta Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site, India
Ajanta Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site located in a horse-shoe shaped river valley, circa 2nd century B.C.E to 5th century C.E. Buddhist caves, near Aurangabad, India

Of the thirty caves, five are chaityas or temples housing a stupa. These are Caves 9, 10, 19, 26, and 29, with Caves 9 and 10 being the oldest, dating to 2nd century B.C.E.

Ajanta Cave 10, the oldest chaitya
Ajanta Cave 10, the oldest chaitya or temple, 2nd century B.C.E. After centuries of abandonment, in 1819, British officer John Smith noticed its arch in the overgrown landscape while out on a hunting expedition. This led to the discovery of Ajanta Caves.

According to inscriptions, this Cave 10 was excavated with the sponsorship of Vasisthiputra Katahadi, Kanahaka of Bhada, and monk Dharmadeva. The paintings on the pillars, ceiling, and walls, rare extant examples of ancient Indian painting, were created by various devotees. Traces of Buddhist themes, designs, and Jataka Tales survive, but little remains of the chaitya’s full glory. This temple originally had a wooden interior, probably a reproduction of the interiors of freestanding wooden structures of its time. The stupa is the largest one at Ajanta. 

Detail of ceiling at Ajanta Cave 10, the oldest chaitya
Detail of painted ceiling at Ajanta Cave 10, the oldest chaitya
Detail of Ajanta Cave 10, the oldest chaitya
Detail of painted column at Ajanta Cave 10, the oldest chaitya

Beside the chaityas, the other caves are viharas, which were monasteries with a central colonnaded gathering hall facing an inner sanctum, flanked by rows of small simple cells that were monks’ quarters. These caves were created at a later date. By scholar Walter Spink’s account, they were excavated predominantly during the Vakataka Dynasty, under King Harishena’s rule, circa 475-500. Other scholars, however, believe the viharas were built over a much longer time span than 25 years.

This later period of 5th to 6th century architecture is marked by elaborate detail, such as seen in Caves 1 and 2 (images to follow below). My favorite is Cave 26. 

Ajanta Cave 26 exterior
Panorama of Ajanta Cave 26 exterior

Cave 26 is similar to the above Cave 19, but far more richly carved and decorated. It is also larger. This chaitya consists of a central hall with colonnaded walkway or side aisles and beautifully carved walls. An inscription dated 450-525 C.E. attributes the founding of it to a monk named Buddhabhadra.

Ajanta Cave 26, India
Panorama of Ajanta Cave 26 interior, chaitya with colonnaded walkway in which one can circumambulate the stupa, India
Ajanta Cave 26
Ajanta Cave 26 carved stupa with seated Buddha
Detail of carved stupa with seated Buddha, Ajanta Cave 26
Detail of carved stupa with seated Buddha on a lion throne, Ajanta Cave 26

I really love this graceful sculpture of Buddha in parinirvana, carved into the side wall of Cave 26.

Panorama of Buddha in parinirvana, carved on left side wall of Ajanta Cave 26
Panorama of Buddha in parinirvana, carved on left side wall of Ajanta Cave 26
Parinirvana, Gautama Buddha upon his death, carved into the left sidewall of Ajanta Cave 26
View of Buddha in parinirvana along left side wall of Ajanta Cave 26

Upon entry into the left aisle, one encounters it. Here is another view of it looking back towards the entrance. Also carved here is Mara’s assault on Buddha.

Left side wall of Ajanta Cave 26
Left side wall of Ajanta Cave 26, Buddha in parinirvana is seen next to the side entrance

The below right side aisle is also amply carved.

View of right aisle, Ajanta Cave 26
View of right side wall, Ajanta Cave 26
View of entrance wall, Ajanta Cave 26
Looking back on main entrance, Ajanta Cave 26

Cave 1 shown below is famous for its extensive and refined paintings which date circa 6th-7th centuries. Literally every inch of its interior was originally painted. The structure consists of a large gathering hall with fourteen cells on the sides, a vestibule, and inner sanctum with antechamber. Its ceiling is a massive expanse for a hypostylar hall of this type, and it is ornately decorated with colorful flora, fauna, figures, and geometric designs. As mentioned earlier, the wall paintings depict Buddha’s life, Jataka tales, bodhisattvas, and royal entourages.

Panorama of Ajanta Cave 1
Panorama of Ajanta Cave 1 facade
Panorama of Ajanta Cave 1, famed for its extensive paintings
Panorama of Ajanta Cave 1, famed for its extensive and refined paintings,
including an enormous painted ceiling
View of Ajanta Cave 1 looking towards the inner sanctum from the entranceway
View of Ajanta Cave 1 looking towards the inner sanctum from its central entrance
View of Buddha statue in preaching pose located in inner sanctum with antechamber, Ajanta Cave 1
View of Buddha statue in preaching pose located in inner sanctum with antechamber, Ajanta Cave 1.

The below detail shows Buddha in his preaching mudra (hand gesture). While the carved deer facing each other on the base of the throne does not show the typical frontal view of an 8-spoked wheel of dharma (teachings) between them, this is likely a reference to Buddha’s first sermon at Sarnath, also known as the First Turning of the Wheel.

Buddha statue in inner sanctum, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of Buddha statue in inner sanctum, Ajanta Cave 1

Here is the famous Ajanta painting of Vajrapani, a bodhisattva who represents Buddha’s power. He is usually one of the three protectors pictured on temples or monasteries. The other two are Manjushri, bodhisattva of transcendent wisdom, and Padmapani also known as Avalokiteshvara, bodhisattva of compassion.

Famed painting of Vajrapani to the right of inner sanctum antechamber, Ajanta Cave 1
Famed painting of Vajrapani to the right of inner sanctum antechamber, Ajanta Cave 1

Vajrapani’s elaborate headdress reminds me of the ones I saw on bodhisattvas in Tabo Monastery’s inner sanctum shown here in a previous post. Ajanta predates Tabo by about 300-400 years.

Detail of Vajrapani, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of Vajrapani whose name means “holder of the thunderbolt or diamond wisdom,” Ajanta Cave 1

And here is the other renowned image, Padmapani, the bodhisattva of compassion who is featured on the other side of the inner sanctum at Cave 1.

Famed painting of Padmapani, Ajanta Cave 1
Famed painting of Padmapani whose name means “holder of the lotus,”
located to left of inner sanctum antechamber, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of Padmapani, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of Padmapani whose name means “holder of the lotus,”Ajanta Cave 1
Scenes from Life of Buddha, wall painting, Ajanta Cave 1
Scenes from Life of Buddha, wall painting, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of scenes from Life of Buddha, wall paintings, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of scenes from Life of Buddha, wall paintings, Ajanta Cave 1

Really richly painted, one can only imagine how vibrant and clear all the images were over 1400 years ago when they were freshly made! And what an impact they must have made on those living here in quiet seclusion contemplating the teachings so beautifully and abundantly expressed.

Panorama view of wall painting, Ajanta Cave 1
Panorama view of wall painting, Ajanta Cave 1
Carved capitals with animals, also visible is painted ceiling, Ajanta Cave 1
Carved capitals with animals and figures, also visible is painted ceiling, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of deer on carved capital, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of deer on carved capital, Ajanta Cave 1. Traces of smooth plaster can be seen. It once covered all surfaces because this was the prepared ground on which all painting was done .

I really appreciate that the artists dedicated themselves to creating fine work everywhere. The vast ceiling of Cave 1 is painstakingly executed with the same level of refinement and delicacy found in the wall paintings. Despite being rather high, and considering that most viewers would not be able to discern the details in low lighting, the artists did not slacken their skills.

Painted ceiling, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of painted ceiling with flora, fauna, figures, and geometric designs, Ajanta Cave 1

I like the grace of this delightful small ceiling panel. It probably only measures 5 x 8 inches at most. Everything from its lyrical design to colors and brushwork, its play on symmetry, form, line, composition, contrast, is so well done. And this is just one example of excellence from an entire ceiling that covers easily an estimated  70 x 70 feet, 1400 square feet in total area! That is a lot of space to paint on this level.

Detail of painted ceiling with animals, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of painted ceiling panel with animals, Ajanta Cave 1

I also found it interesting that similar to the ceilings of later 10th century Indo-Tibetan monasteries, the imagery is non-religious. At Lhalung Monastery, for example, where I visited and wrote about here, the coffered ceiling of its Golden Temple is entirely painted in geometric designs. Perhaps artists followed a precedent set here at Ajanta.

Detail of painted ceiling with flora, Ajanta Cave 1
Detail of painted ceiling with flora, fauna, figures, and geometric designs, Ajanta Cave 1

Ajanta Cave 2 is the other one well-known for its well-preserved murals. I’ll only show a few details here to give an idea of it. Truly, one has to go to Ajanta in person to experience the eye-popping ancient wonder of it!

Panorama view of Ajanta Cave 2, India
Panorama view of Ajanta Cave 2
Painted ceiling, Ajanta Cave 2, India
Painted ceiling, Ajanta Cave 2
Detail of ceiling painting, Ajanta Cave 2, India
Detail of ceiling painting, Ajanta Cave 2
Inner sanctum and antechamber, Ajanta Cave 2, India
Inner sanctum and antechamber with unusually carved asymmetric capitals, Ajanta Cave 2
Detail of inner sanctum and antechamber, Ajanta Cave 2, India
Detail of inner sanctum and antechamber, Ajanta Cave 2
An unusually carved and asymmetric capital on this antechamber column, Ajanta Cave 2
Detail of unusually carved, asymmetric capital on this inner sanctum antechamber column, Ajanta Cave 2

The Vakataka Dynasty, Buddhist devotees who predominantly sponsored the creation of the Ajanta Caves, overlapped with the great Gupta Empire. According to UNESCO World Heritage website, the “decoration attained at this time an unequalled splendor…the statuary is numerous…the wall painting, profuse and sensitive, constitutes, no doubt, the most striking artistic achievement of Ajanta. Under the impulse of the Gupta dynasty, Indian art in effect reached its apogee…The refined lightness of the decoration, the balance of the compositions, the marvelous beauty of the feminine figures place the paintings of Ajanta among the major achievements of the Gupta and post-Gupta style and confer on them the ranking of a masterpiece of universal pictorial art.”

I’ve highlighted some of the best caves at Ajanta, though many were left unfinished. It is said by scholar Walter Spink that this was due to the political interruption and unrest that followed when Vakataka King Harisena suddenly died in 500 C.E.

Ajanta Cave 24, India
View from entrance of the incomplete Ajanta Cave 24. Its floor was not yet leveled out before abandonment.

What followed was relatively quick and permanent abandonment of Ajanta Caves not long afterwards. When social and political conditions favored once again the sponsorship and excavation of devotional caves, new ones were created at Ellora about 106 kilometers away. Yes, I went there, too! Coming soon will be incredible photos from this site!

The unfinished Cave 24 was fascinating to see because it gave insight on how the caves were excavated. This is a view looking down what would have been the left side aisle of the vihara. The columns are only partway hewn and the depth of the floor is still to be determined, whereas the ceiling appears smooth and complete. This is strong evidence that building a cave at Ajanta was indeed done from top to bottom.

Ajanta Cave 24, India
View from what would be the left side aisle of the incomplete Ajanta Cave 24

Talk about positive and negative space! It’s so plain to see here what has to still be taken away in order to “build” the remaining architecture. The columns and their capitals are in process here, as is the floor of the main hall.

Ajanta Cave 24
View of right side columns in process of excavation at the incomplete Ajanta Cave 24

Chisels marks can clearly be seen on this column in-the-making.

Ajanta Cave 24, India
Detail of right side column in process of excavation at the incomplete Ajanta Cave 24. Its capital and final shape are yet to be defined and chisel marks are clearly seen.

When you think about this being the early state of Ajanta caves before they are completed into their finely carved and painted glory, it’s humbling. So much ancient skill and artistry, so much vision and dedication!

All photos © 2013, Eva Lee.

2 Responses

  1. thank you very much for this beautiful documentation of your trip, with description of what is in there— I did not know those were from the Jataka tales…Also when I went there many years ago, I was dissappointed to not be able to see the colours because there was a concern that bright lights would fade the paint. So this is a beautful record thank you

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