Dharamsala Return, Monsoon Mist, and Midst

His Holiness the Dalai Lama giving teachings at Namgyal Monastery. Photo by Abhishek Madhukar
His Holiness the Dalai Lama giving teachings at Namgyal Monastery. Photo by Abhishek Madhukar

I loved that last week I happened to get back to Dharamsala just in time again for the Dalai Lama’s teachings. This one was on Nagarjuna and Tsongkhapa‘s writings, at the request of a Taiwanese group. Great bookend that I arrived Dharamsala first in August to attend a teaching before leaving for the High Himalayas, and then arrived again to attend a teaching after my journey! This one was four days long, and included an initiation for Vairocana tantra. The town swells with visitors and cars during these times, and then very quickly shrinks back when the teachings end.

I was so happy also to return to my little home-away-from-home here. Very grateful to a friend for helping me find this place, in prime location close to Namgyal Monastery, with wraparound terrace, mountain view, morning sun streaming in. It’s clean, no bad mildew or mold odors like many spaces here are stricken by because of monsoon.

Speaking of monsoon, it is still raining here! Locals said it not only began early this year and would normally be over by mid-September, but is still lingering. I have been caught in it again and totally drenched, thinking rueful thoughts to myself as my pants were soaked and my shoes like wet squishy sponges that would take days to dry. I had expected that by my return in October the rainy season would be over. But, well, who am I to complain? I haven’t even had to live through months of this!

And let me quickly add, it’s better. Did I mention the sun? Yes, many mornings it does come streaming into my room. Such a joy to wake up to! The weather pattern currently is, some sun in the morning, and then by afternoon or evening the mist and clouds roll in. The whiteout this creates make the visibility of the switchback roads about 12 feet ahead.

Sunny view, Dharamsala
Sunny view, Dharamsala
Monsoon mist view, Dharamsala
Monsoon whiteout mist view, Dharamsala

Upon my return, I met with two geshes for further guidance on research resources and references. I’ve now got thousands of photos and image management to do, and will be spending time identifying what I’ve shot.

I think I will be frequenting the Tibetan Library & Archives a lot. Oh, and what a sight to see when I toured it! It has been, and is still, undergoing renovations since I was last here three years ago. The director is commendably bringing it into the 21st century! I’m thrilled to see that the old museum, previously saddled by poor lighting and exhibition conditions, is now newly expanded and nearing completion. There will be proper track lighting, display cases, and descriptive placards to do its fine collection of paintings and sculptures justice. The library stacks are newly organized in archival and accessible contemporary shelving. Their collection of sacred texts, which are tens of thousands of leaves of text traditionally bundled and kept tied together in fabric, is now being digitally scanned and stored.  What else…Oh, a New Media Department! A room with computer monitors dedicated to storing and presenting its new collection of videos and other digital media on Tibetan subjects. Lastly, soon to come will be a new floor of offices and administrative space.

Meanwhile, J organized a film night in which my work was featured along with an American documentary filmmaker, Ronny Novick. In attendance were two chodpas, lay tantric practitioners who do special meditation practices at cemetaries in order to cut through ego and realize emptiness, and who were interested in my latest animation Into the Midst because they said it’s just like what they visualize when they practice Chod. Wow. The conversation that ensued with these Kagyu yogis about some of their inner experiences was eye-opening.

Chodpas are also spiritual healers, and as traveling mendicants, may be invited by community members to conduct prayers for the deceased, the living, and those believed to be wandering spirits.  See them in a Chod prayer session here.

Tibetan Buddhist chodpas, Dharamsala, India
Two chodpas, Tibetan Buddhist mendicants who live by travelling and receiving alms for their prayer services, engaged in a Chod session. Tibetans have a strong tradition of welcoming chodpas to stay at their home for a day or two to say prayers for the deceased, the living, and wandering spirits.
Photo by Tenzin Tsundue.

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